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Stef

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About Stef

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  1. On the positive side, you're now both experts at using Percona Toolkit, right?
  2. Cheers for fixing everything, Uni! (And ans.) Sounds like it was a right nightmare to repair/restore.
  3. Have you tried an emulator like DOSBox? Or, probably a better bet, one of the front-ends for it like LaunchBox.
  4. I've got a Gemtek WMIB-187AG (Broadcom BCM94311MCAG) pulled from a dying laptop that you can have, if you message me an address, but it's a/b/g only (no 802.11n support), no Bluetooth, and full length mini PCI-E rather than half mini, so probably won't suit. If it doesn't, Amazon or eBay are your best bets, looks like you can get them for £5-10 inc. post.
  5. OK, success. Here's the convoluted process: I factory reset the Roku and deregistered it from the website's account Disabled Wi-Fi on the router Used an ethernet cable from my laptop to the router, VPNed into a UK VPN (I used the details from bestukvpn.com), then used Mac OS X's Internet Sharing to share this connection to a new Wi-Fi network with the same name and password as the router's disabled one Checked that the IP was in the UK using MaxMind's GeoIP2 demo Connected the Roku to this network and set it up as usual Linked it (via the code it displays on the TV) with a new website account using my friend's other email address Provided the credit card details as required by Roku (their account stuff's over SSL so no big worries about trusting bestukvpn's connection) Added all the recommended channels (Netflix, iPlayer, 5OD, etc.) Set up Netflix account details on the Roku box and tested with a video Disconnected the VPN, reenabled the router's Wi-Fi Power-cycled the Roku, then checked that everything still worked So yeah. Annoying enough that I'm not sure I'd recommend one, but if you or your family are given one then with a some geek skills it can be made to play.
  6. Thanks for the replies. I'll give it a try when I'm 'round my friend's tonight, set up a VPN on my laptop and share out the wi-fi, then connect the Roku to that and see if an "initialised in the UK" setup works. Otherwise, I'll give their helpline a shot, perhaps it'll yield better results than their online chat. I have a feeling the device will be getting returned, but maybe the helpline will change my mind. I certainly wouldn't recommend a Roku to anyone at the moment!
  7. Has anyone had any luck with the Roku media devices? I bought a Roku LT as a cheap Christmas present so a friend could get Netflix and iPlayer on his telly; everything seemed to be quite slick and straightforward while setting it up, but upon conclusion neither Netflix or iPlayer appear in the channel list. Roku's online support were useless, along the lines of "oh, you're in the Isle of Man and that's not a supported location, ask the 'channel providers' directly," which is just odd given we get Netflix and iPlayer here just fine directly in a browser. So it seems to be a similar situation to the whole Google Play store nonsense, except annoying there's no way to set up a VPN connection directly on these devices. I'm assuming they're using IP geolocation to lock their things down at their end. Does anyone know whether they just check on initial device registration/account creation? I could wrangle it though a one-time VPN if so. Or do any local ISPs have any netblocks which are known to work with them? (He's on Wi-manx on my recommendation.) It'd be super handy if our ISPs could allocate a small block if IPs to appear as if they were in the UK (by fibbing to Maxmind), then assign these via a support request. Or should I just send the useless thing back and give him some pennies towards an Apple TV, which he can at least use for Netflix and AirPlay? Alternatively, does anyone have any recommendations for cheap media boxes that do Netflix (plus iPlayer, ideally)? Thanks!
  8. Hi John, I've a feeling this'll be well out of my price range, but how much are you looking for for this camera? Thanks, Stef
  9. That's an impressively old resurrection there, Cret! Hmm, sorta depends on specifics: how many machines? Any different OSes? That sort of thing. The general Windows recommendation would still be Acronis, catchily entitled 'Acronis True Image Home 2010' these days. Costs money (unless you have a Western Digital harddisk - google for 'Acronis WD Edition') , but it's worth it. Oh, I'd avoid selective backups, though. Storage is cheap so back up everything. This has the advantage of being quicker and easier to configure, prevents you accidentally missing something, usually allows for full bare-metal restores, etc.. When you factor in how long it'd take you to reinstall all your programs and reconfigure the OS to how you like it, let alone restoring your data, it makes much more sense.
  10. Hi Karen. Which iPhone is it, the original (with a silver back), the 3G one (white or black plastic back) or the new 3GS (unlikely, as it's not available here yet)? The original iPhone won't do MMS, but the 3G & 3GS both will. However, they may need a software upgrade first. Plug it into the computer it syncs to and iTunes should tell you how to go about the upgrade, it's pretty easy. I'm not familiar with Sure's internet settings so can't really help there, I'm afraid. Sorry! There are a couple of earlier threads on the Computing & Internet forum with information relating to Manx Telecom, might be something for Sure there, too?
  11. Ah, shows how long it's been since I've done Windows admin RichCopy (GUI for RoboCopy) does look excellent: http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/magazin...yspotlight.aspx
  12. Aye, was going to mention SyncToy, too, but it's not as slick as DropSync. Robocopy's great, used it years ago for syncing data to standby servers, but it's not particularly friendly unless you're familiar with the commandline. Another one worth looking at is DirSync Pro: http://directorysync.sourceforge.net/index.html
  13. "With Conficker.C slowly counting down towards its April 1 launch date, Team White Hat may have had a breakthrough. The new scanning tool developed by Dan Kaminsky, Felix Leder, and Tillman Werner may not actually remove the malware, but it'll give network IT a faster, more accurate map of where Conficker starts and where it tries to go." - http://arstechnica.com/security/news/2009/...red-debuted.ars More here: http://www.doxpara.com/?p=1285 If you're responsible for a network, it may well be worth your while running the scanner as a precautionary measure.
  14. Darik's boot and nuke: http://www.dban.org/ Boot the CD, run & it'll wipe everything securely. Incidentally, a recent survey showed that a straight zero-out wipe proved unrecoverable, but if time's not an issue then a paranoid DoD-compliant 7/35/whatever pass wipe will work fine. That's by far enough. If you're really paranoid, unscrew it all with a security-socket bit (sets off eBay from China are around a tenner at most) and hit the platters with a hammer/grind it into filings/whatever, but that's overkill really.
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