GD4ELI Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Tomorrow take photos of the outside: garden, roof, walls. You may be amazed how water can get into a building. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderstruck Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I have had an Email from this guy - & let's just say, he has been let down by MHK's and building control. But more to the point this guy needs more attention and help from both environmental health & SOCIAL SERVICE'S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD4ELI Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 "The ground level is above internal floor level" I wanted outside photos as the soil outside combined with leaves etc. may be over an existing damp proof course. This is a reason why drains whould never be blocked etc. As Thunderstuck is knowledgable it would be interesting to see the outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierrot Lunaire Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Everything gets into a room from outside! Now behave... The source of damp caused by condensation is often from inside the room. Drying clothes for instance. Or you could have rising damp from a corroded copper water pipe - corroded for example by having a concrete floor poured straight over it. This is a very common cause of damp. From inside the room. Idiots get into rooms from outside. Or at least, they do in your house. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GD4ELI Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I'd get that box section out first - I bet there's a leaking pipe in there. Guttering? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierrot Lunaire Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I'd get that box section out first - I bet there's a leaking pipe in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brightspark Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 I'd get that box section out first - I bet there's a leaking pipe in there. A lot of the dampness is in the box section - however this is totally hollow with no pipes. if i light a fire some smoke travels through this box section that starts at the fireplace runs through the right part of the living room and come out under the bath, yet the fireplace is of sound condition and i do not see the entrance of this box section on the fireplace end only where it ends under the bath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brightspark Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Hi brightspark It's Brian here, The problem is moisture coming up where the solid floor meets the wall, weak point around skirting board area - wall to floor joint- (solid concrete floor with no damp proof membrane, below external ground level) also to the left gable wall. The ground level is above internal floor level and the property is at the bottom of a valley! geotechnical ground levels and water table issue..... To the inside wall you have hydrated carlite plaster applied to a solid stone wall in random areas (chalk on a damp stone wall) If you hack it off and prepare the walls, buy the materials I will show you what to do, and guide you so you no longer have water entering the problem area (free off charge) I have had an Email from this guy - & let's just say, he has been let down by MHK's and building control. But more to the point this guy needs more attention and help from both environmental health & SOCIAL SERVICE'S Hi Brian, I am not a builder, but i could prepare the area if guided as to what to do - Shown what areas of plaster i should remove and clean and prepare the area for tanking. I can't cope with prices like this nor tanking itself as this is specialised. I don't expect it for nothing - but if it was priced like that in the UK - even after i helped out i could cope Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderstruck Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Being serious, I'm more than a little concerned at the use of an electric heater and hair drier for an extended period of time from a potentionaly damp corroded socket, fire waiting to happen, please do not leave unattended. By the sound of it the box section is left over from a previously fitted back boiler with pipe work to the bath. As I said earlier I've been through this myself, and had a very similar situation to the one described by Brian. I did most of the work myself and your more than welcome to have a look and I'll run through the problems I had and what was involved in putting things right.There is a hell of a lot of work involved to do the job properly, not only are the materials expensive but it is a lot of hard manual work to, so a price for a good job by decent tradesmen will be expensive. The problem is if you just patch the area that's damp now its more than likely the water will move on to the next weakest point. Just to make it clear I am not a tradesman, I can only tell you how I went about solving a similar problem, and it seems to have worked for me. Edit on laptop, not easy replying on the phone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truth doctor Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 damp proofing is not a tade just a liscence to rip people off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I'd be more weary of cheap damp proofing tbh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderstruck Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I'd be more weary of cheap damp proofing tbh Agree! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderstruck Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 damp proofing is not a tade just a liscence to rip people off Having worked in the dry rot & structural waterproofing side of things for over the past 15 years, I have to agree in some cases you are right when it comes to chemical damp proof course injection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brightspark Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 "The ground level is above internal floor level" I wanted outside photos as the soil outside combined with leaves etc. may be over an existing damp proof course. This is a reason why drains whould never be blocked etc. As Thunderstuck is knowledgable it would be interesting to see the outside. Hi, I don't have a garden or gutterings outside as the wall outside is a SW Facing Gable wall and the ground above the affected area is a solid concrete drive. I tried to upload photos on here, however they do not appear on here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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