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Jump Leads


cheesypeas

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Also be careful of wedding rings and other metal jewellery around car batteries - I've heard of some nasty cases of second degree deep burns where rings have shorted a circuit during jump starts. Ouch.

 

If the wife keeps leaving the fecking radio on for three days at a time, the wedding ring might be for sale !

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When I did this last I put negative to negative and positive to positive and all was well. I think its quite important that donor car is revving as it is being attached to avoid draining its battery into recipient car.

 

Mind you my info might be somewhat out of date since the last car I worked on had a handle you had to wind at the front to make it go and was largely made out of wood. In fact I think it even had a flue pipe... and a big-end. Or something like that. What's a crankshaft? Is your battery metric or imperial? How many spherical inches capacity?

 

I'm going back to sleep.

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I find that hard to believe.

 

Good for you.

 

I've heard a car battery blow up before from a stray spark igniting it, made a hell of a bang. Luckily I had my back to it at the time (and had a Fiat Panda shielding me), I was grinding some sheet steel at the time so could only put it down to a spark igniting it. So a cigarette in very close vicinity igniting one? I can believe that.

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Easy way to remember how to connect.

 

If your battery is flat and you are +ve about that, connect the +ve jump lead to it Then (as you are holding the +ve lead) you connect that to the good battery +ve.

 

As you are then at the good battery end, and you have only one lead left, connect that to the -ve, and then find a good earth on the engine block/lifting eyes.

 

This reduces the risk of a spark around the good and the bad battery, but also makes sure the negative connection to the starter motor is as good a posible. The resistance form the -ve battery terminal to the engine block strap could be as much as 1 or 2 ohms (or greater is you have charge problems) which would mean less volts at the starter motor for cranking.

 

Start the car with the good battery and lift the revs a tad.

 

Start the flat car.

 

Remove the leads as soon as the car is started.

 

Disconnection is just as important when the engine is running - its the reverse of the connection procedure. Again to reduce the risk of a spark at the now charging battery and the good battery, shorting the two batteries and cooking an alternator, or dropping a loop of jumper cable into a spinning alternator/radiator cooling fan.

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Couldn't you just have rolled the car down the hill to bump start it?

 

You're not supposed to bump start cars with catalytic converters - it forces unburnt petrol into the cat, ruining it.

Who cares? We don't get emission tests / MOTs :huh:

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I know a mechanic who has one eye and looked like he was sprayed with acid, coz he was, coz he lent down over a battery with a fag in his mouth and the battery went bang.

I find that hard to believe. It's more probable that someone poked his eye out for telling untrue stories.

 

 

This is a fine example of a typical keyborer post. Well done. :whatever:

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